Buying beads and crystals for the first time can be overwhelming, with so many shapes, cuts and finishes to choose from. This ultimate guide breaks down every major type, from flatback rhinestones and chatons to fancy stones, sew-on crystals, cup chains and rivets, so you can shop with confidence. Look out for the "Tips and Tricks" sections throughout, which share the practical knowledge you would otherwise have to learn the hard way.
We pride ourselves on offering exceptional choice, however when there is such variety to choose from it can be daunting if you are completely new to the world of crystals. If you have no previous experience to help you know your Rose Pin from your Rivoli or your Cup Chain from your Cubic Zirconia, this guide will see you through the maze. We break down the jargon and explain what each crystal actually is, what it is typically used for, and the common mistakes to avoid.
TIP: A general rule worth knowing is that there can be several names involved in defining exactly what type of crystal you are looking at. There is the name for the product category, the name for the colour of the glass, and in some cases the name of the cut, which refers to the design of the crystal. For example, you can have a "flatback non-hotfix crystal" in the colour "Jet" with the cut "Chaton Rose". This is a flatback crystal, not a pointed-back chaton, and its colour is Jet black, not rose pink. "Chaton Rose" is the name of the cut of the stone. Another common example is a fancy stone that comes in a cut called "Emerald", which is not the colour even though you can also get an emerald stone in the colour emerald.
Flatback Crystals / Rhinestones
The most frequently purchased type of cut-glass crystal is the Flatback Crystal, also known as a rhinestone. These are perfect for gluing onto flat surfaces. The top side is cut so that it has many sides to catch the light, called facets. The more facets a crystal has, the more opportunities it has to catch the light, giving it the ability to twinkle. The underside is flat and smooth, and this is the side that touches the glue.
When navigating "what size of crystal do you need?", you will find that basic round crystals are sorted into SS numbers. The general rule is the smaller the SS number, the smaller the crystal will be. We have a size guide on our website that converts SS numbers into ruler measurements, included on the product description page. If you can measure the size of the area you wish to cover with a single crystal, you can use that to find the best size match from our selection.
There are two main types of flatback crystal:
- HOTFIX Flatback Crystals, identified with the abbreviation "HF" on our retail packs, come with a thin layer of heat-reactive glue on the back. These are designed to be attached to fabric using a heat tool, which warms the crystal and melts the glue on the underside while pressing it down into the fibres of the fabric. Once cooled, this method gives plenty of hold as the fabric bends and stretches.
- NON-HOTFIX Flatback Crystals, identified with the abbreviation "NHF" on our retail packs, have no heat-reactive glue on the back. They require a separate glue to stick them to your chosen surface, which makes them very versatile, since depending on the glue you use, they can be stuck onto anything that is flat.
TIP: If you are embellishing onto a curved surface, you can still use flatback crystals as long as the sizes you choose are small enough to sit flush against the surface. Imagine trying to put a plate on top of a basketball: a big plate would have gaps underneath as the ball curves away, but a tiny plate would not have this problem.
Faerie & Enchanted
Preciosa Faerie and Estella Enchanted use tiny double-cone and crystal balls that are individually sized, shaped and polished to be perfect additions to any nail art design or to create a fully crystal-covered surface.
Beads
Beads can be made from anything, but the defining feature is that they have a hole running through the centre, which allows a thread or cord to pass through. We specialise in cut-glass faceted beads and crystals, and there are four major types on our website. Bicone and Round bead sizes are measured in mm, referring to the diameter of the bead unless it is asymmetrically shaped, in which case there will be measurements for both length and width. Not all bead holes are the same size, so it is worth knowing these sizes so you can select the right thread or needle. Bead thread holes for our ranges can be found in the Resources section of our website.
Bicone Beads (such as the 5328 bicones in the Serinity range) are cut to a specific recognisable style, also known as rondelle, so they catch the light from multiple directions. They come in sizes from 2.5mm up to 10mm on our website.
Round Beads (such as the 5000 round beads in the Serinity range) have so many facets that they look much rounder than the angular bicone. Round beads come in sizes from 2mm up to 12mm on our website.
Shaped Beads are free to be whatever shape the manufacturer chooses and are measured in length and width. These designs tend to be more intricate and resemble recognisable objects such as hearts and butterflies, making them well suited to earrings as well as necklaces and bracelets. The most popular include Briolette beads, which resemble a squished round bead so that from the side they look more like a short oval, and skull-shaped beads, which enjoy a wave of popularity every year around Halloween.
Seed Beads, also known as Rocailles, are smaller and appear smooth compared to the previously mentioned styles, although some can be referred to as "faceted" if they include flat sides. Seed beads use a different sizing system, starting with a base size of zero. The rule is: the larger the number, the smaller the bead. A size 10 bead is 10 times smaller than a size 0 bead, shown as "10/0" or simply "size 10" on the packet.
The common sizes in our Preciosa Ornela collection are:
- Size 6, approximately 4.1mm across with a 0.9mm hole, shown as 6/0.
- Size 8, approximately 2.9mm across with a 0.9mm hole, shown as 8/0.
- Size 10, approximately 2.3mm across with a 0.8mm hole, shown as 10/0.
Chatons & Round Stones
Chatons are round crystals that come to a single point on the back, the shape most people think of when they imagine a cut diamond. Chatons are designed for jewellery making, where they are placed into a metal setting that can accommodate the depth of the pointed back.
This extra depth gives the stone greater complexity when viewed from the front, because you can see light interacting with the facets both over the top and on the inside of the crystal. Chatons are therefore unsuitable for flat surfaces, because they will always tilt to one side and from at least one angle you will see the back, which is typically not meant to be seen. You can get unfoiled chatons, which are popular as scatter crystals for table decoration.
Classic Chatons, often coded 1028 and 1088, are the most popular style. Viewed from the side they are the same shape as the Superman logo, defined by the pointed tip at the bottom and a flat surface on top with smaller facets around the side.
Rivoli Chatons, also known as 1122 chatons, are unique because they are cut the same way on both sides of the crystal. The top also comes to a central point, giving the appearance of a shallow spike. Rivoli chatons are generally wider and shallower than classic chatons, making them a good choice for covering larger surface areas.
Channel Chatons are faceted on both sides, making them essentially double-sided, and are usually unfoiled, which makes them popular as scatter crystals and in jewellery making. These are typically chosen when the jewellery maker wants the wearer to be able to see through the crystal, often as a link in a necklace or bracelet, set into a special component to achieve this effect.
Special Cut Chatons are often larger in size, with additional facets in the design for extra brilliance. A stunning example is the 1400 Dome Round Chaton from the Serinity range.
TIP: Chatons may be referred to as "round stones", and in the flatback crystals range there is a style of round flatback that has a cut design called "Chaton Rose", which makes it very easy to confuse the two. The key thing to look out for is the word "flatback"; we also use the words "pointed back" when referring to chatons to add clarity.
Pendants
The pendants on our website are made from cut glass and have a hole drilled through the top of the crystal so it can be attached to either a necklace or a drop-style earring with a jump ring or a pendant bail. Most pendants in our range are double-sided, meaning they can dangle from an earring and not have an obvious back or front. The difference between a pendant and a bead is the location of the drilled hole: a bead has a hole running through the centre, while a pendant has a hole at one end which is designed to be the top. Some lighting crystals are similar to pendant crystals, however they are generally much larger.
The hole size on any pendant is relative to the size of the crystal, with sizes on our website generally starting from 1mm in diameter up to approximately 3mm. The width of the hole and the depth of the crystal it passes through will affect your choice of bail or jump ring; we include this measurement on the product description page of each pendant.
Fancy Stones
Fancy stones are uniquely shaped crystals designed to be set into metal casings and mimic the appearance of precious and semi-precious stones in jewellery. This style is shaped on both sides similar to chatons, but the back is typically more complex in design and does not come to a single point.
TIP: Different brands may use the same name to represent the cut of their fancy stones (for example "Baguette"), however the dimensions can vary between manufacturers, so it is important to pay attention to the measurements if you are trying to match a stone to a metal setting.
Sew-On Crystals
Sew-on crystals are flatback crystals that have holes in them, allowing a needle to pass through and secure them to fabric. The most well-known sew-on crystal is called Lochrose, which is round with the hole going through the centre. These behave like sequins and are very popular in ballroom dance competitions, where they are combined with other sew-on crystal shapes like Navette and Pear to create stunning designs. Some sew-on stones have two holes so they can be securely attached at either end.
Crystals In Settings
A "setting" is a metal casing designed to hold a crystal, and this is the standard method for attaching fancy stones or chatons to jewellery or sewing them onto fabric. Crystals in settings are products where a fancy stone or chaton is already combined with a metal setting, ready to be sewn or soldered onto your intended surface.
The metal setting can look like silver or gold, and on the product page you will find diagrams giving the front and side views, so you can see where the sewing holes are located. The crystals themselves come in a variety of shapes and sizes, and having them already inside a setting saves you having to find a match yourself.
Cup Chains
Crystal cup chains are metal chains, which can look like silver or gold, with round or fancy stones set into them. These are popular in jewellery and fabric embellishment.
Rivets
Rivets are made of metal with a crystal set into them and come in two parts: the main piece, which contains the crystal and is pushed through the material, and the Back Part, which attaches to the back and holds it securely in place. It is recommended that rivets are applied using a fly press or application pliers, because the process requires a bit of force.
Rose Pins
Rose pins are great for glue-resistant surfaces such as suede and leather, and look like a rivet once in place. A fly press or application pliers are best when applying rose pins, because the pins need to be pushed through the fabric and then bent inward so they hold themselves in place, similar to a stapler through paper.
Cubic Zirconia
Cubic Zirconia is developed using the latest diamond-cutting software to enhance the natural optical properties of the crystal, making it resemble real diamonds as closely as possible.
Crystal Mesh
Crystal Mesh is a flexible metal mesh with loose crystals set into the weave, available bespoke from our supplier. The mesh itself comes in silver or gold plating, and it can be hand or machine sewn.
Crystal Net
Crystal Net is created by applying crystals in a grid formation to the intersecting points of a net, according to your specified bespoke design. You can choose whether or not the net is elasticated, and you can specify the size of the holes and how the edges are finished. The crystals can come in a variety of colours and be SS10 or larger. Crystal Net is suitable for sewing and hotfix application, both by hand and machine, and is mostly used for clothing designs.
Crystal Sheet
Crystal Sheet (also known as Crystal Fabric) is a flexible sheet of film with crystals completely covering one side, available in six possible crystal colours: Crystal AB, Starlight Gold, Aurum, Capri Gold, Labrador or Hematite. The crystals can go on either a transparent or black film, and can be laser cut into motif designs or shapes according to your unique design requirements. Crystal Sheet is suitable for gluing or hotfix application.
As you continue your journey through the world of all things sparkly, refer back to this guide whenever you need a reminder of the differences between the types of products we provide.
FAQs
What are the different types of crystals to buy?
The main crystal types are: flatback rhinestones (with smooth or pre-glued backs for surface application), beads (with holes for threading), chatons (pointed-back stones for jewellery settings), fancy stones (uniquely shaped stones for metal settings), sew-on crystals (flatbacks with stitching holes), pendants (top-drilled hanging stones), cup chains, rivets, rose pins and crystal mesh. Each type suits specific applications.
What is the difference between flatback crystals and chatons?
Flatback crystals have a smooth flat reverse side for gluing or hotfix application to flat surfaces. Chatons have a pointed reverse side designed to be set into metal jewellery settings that accommodate the depth. Flatbacks are used for nail art, costumes and embellishment; chatons are used for jewellery making. Confusingly, the most common flatback cut is called "Chaton Rose", which is not a chaton.
How do I read crystal sizes (SS, mm, pp)?
SS (Stone Size) is used for round flatback crystals, ranging from SS3 (1.4mm) to SS48 (11mm) — smaller SS numbers mean smaller crystals. Bicone and round beads are measured in mm diameter (2mm-12mm). Seed beads use reverse sizing where 10/0 is smaller than 6/0. Shaped stones are measured length x width. Always check the size guide on the product page.
What is the difference between beads and pendants?
The difference is hole location. Beads have a hole running through the centre, allowing thread or cord to pass through for stringing into necklaces and bracelets. Pendants have a hole at the top, designed to hang from a chain via a jump ring or bail. Beads are usually used in multiples; pendants are typically used as single hanging focal pieces in jewellery design.
What are seed beads sized in?
Seed beads use the aught system written as "size/0" (pronounced "size aught"). Larger numbers mean smaller beads: size 6/0 is 4.1mm, size 8/0 is 2.9mm, size 10/0 is 2.3mm, and size 15/0 is 1.5mm. The system originates from the number of beads that fit per inch on a string. Preciosa Ornela seed beads are the industry standard for quality and consistency.
How do I choose between hotfix and non-hotfix flatback crystals?
Choose hotfix flatbacks for fabric embellishment where speed matters: t-shirts, dance costumes, dancewear and home textiles that can tolerate heat at 130-150°C. Choose non-hotfix flatbacks for nail art, hard surfaces (phone cases, leather, plastic, metal), heat-sensitive fabrics (silk, vinyl), and any application requiring crystal glue (E6000 Plus, Gem-Tac) rather than heat-activated bonding.
What is cubic zirconia and how is it different from crystal?
Cubic zirconia (CZ) is a synthetic gemstone made from zirconium dioxide, engineered with diamond-cutting software to mimic real diamonds. It rates 8-8.5 on the Mohs hardness scale (diamond is 10) and has a refractive index of 2.15. Crystals like Swarovski are precision-cut glass with metallic foil backings (Mohs 5-6). CZ is a diamond simulant; crystals are decorative embellishment material.
