Choosing the right thread or cord is the foundation of any successful jewellery making or beading project, yet the sheer range available can make it hard to know where to start. This guide gives a no-nonsense breakdown of the different threads and cords out there, from beginner basics to industrial-grade options. With the right knowledge you can choose what genuinely suits your project, rather than simply buying whatever a retailer happens to be selling.
Every retailer wants you to buy the thread they are selling, so each is bound to declare theirs the best. In reality, every thread is designed to achieve a unique effect or serve a specific purpose, which may not be the best fit for you. We will start with basic threads that are great for anyone dipping their toe into a craft for the first time, then cover more specialised options for those who wish to go further, so there is something useful here no matter your skill level. We will also cover general concepts worth bearing in mind: for example, did you know there is such a thing as conditioned versus unconditioned thread? The difference is simply the presence of a wax coating, but it makes a big difference in practice.
When first contemplating your thread choice, think about the job it is doing. In jewellery making it may need to be strong and decidedly not stretchy if it is going to carry the weight of a large statement pendant or a string of heavy glass beads, otherwise the weight will warp the design over time. Likewise, if you are weaving many beads together to form a wide cuff or choker, that method usually requires the thread to pass through the hole in each bead more than once. You will need a thread that is strong but also thin enough to pass through the available space multiple times, so the diameter of the bead hole is a factor to consider.
When you first embark on your shopping adventure, there are a few classic basic threads that are near universal and great for beginners. A few of these include:
Elastic Cords, which typically come in either black or clear, are manufactured from a single long strand of elastic and are great if you want to stretch and bend them into any shape. This makes them very forgiving and good for beginners, as they will not fray and are easy to thread through beads without needing a needle. They can simply be tied into a knot at your desired length, for example a stretchy beaded bracelet without the need for crimp beads, crimp tubes, jump rings and clasps (unless you want to use them). The only thing to bear in mind is that because it is stretchy, there is a chance it will slacken over time; to fix this you can simply untie the knot, trim off any excess and retie it.
Monofilament Threads are defined by being made up of a single line of nylon or polyester filament. This is quite a stiff thread and is usually clear, making it great when you do not want the thread to be the part you see.
Silk Threads such as Griffin Silk are extremely common and very popular in jewellery making because of the extensive range of colours they come in, as silk can be dyed easily. Silk is also very thin compared to the multi-ply options found in the haberdashery section. These tend to be unconditioned, single ply threads, which means there is one strand of spun fibre rather than two or more; 4 ply knitting yarn is a great way to see how ply affects the structure, resembling a candy cane when there is more than one ply. As silk consists of one strand, it is great for threading, however this also means it is not as strong as other options, and if unconditioned it is liable to fray. These are best for delicate, lightweight pieces that involve weaving techniques. If you have your heart set on silk but are concerned about fraying, you can condition the thread yourself using a small block of wax, passing the thread over it several times while pressing down with your thumb to coat it in a protective layer.
Natural Silk Bead Cord is designed specifically for threading real (from the shell) pearls, and works equally well for crystal pearl beads; the natural silk prevents abrasion that could damage the pearls and limits the risk of discolouration.
Superlon Cords, also known as S-Lon depending on where you are, are made of nylon and are a thicker option while still being called a thread. Their thickness is the result of several strands twisted together, which when inspected up close looks similar in structure to a rope. These threads come in all sorts of colours and are well suited to tightly woven or knitted jewellery designs due to their strength, and the fact that they are not elastic means they hold their shape over time.
Cotton Threads are different from silk in that they are stronger, typically waxed, and offer a natural alternative to nylon threads. Cotton threads are thicker than other types, making them great for knot work and heavier items of jewellery. As cotton is a natural material it may shrink slightly over time, which means anywhere the thread is attached to a metal finding, such as a clasp, you may notice it appears slightly looser after a while.
Natural Hemp Cord is a great environmentally friendly, biodegradable thread that is closely knit from natural hemp and behaves similarly to Chinese knotting cord. This style is also dyed with natural colours, making it great for earthy, organic textures like wood or stone pendants.
Polyester Metallic Threads are great if you want your threads to be a feature in their own right, shining through the gaps in your beads or shimmering within a woven design. They tend to be 2 ply and are well suited to woven beading projects that use knotting, such as macrame charm bracelets. These can be a great way of adding a shining accent, however this thread has a tendency to cling to itself and will tangle easily if you are not paying attention; once you have the knack, you will be looking for excuses to use it. Another example is Tassel Cord, designed specifically for tassels of the kind you might find on festival earrings or even curtain ties. This thread is more delicate and likely to break if it has to carry any weight, so we recommend it only if you intend to make a tassel from it, or perhaps add some flare to a fishing fly. There is frequently a lot of crossover between fishing and jewellery making materials, so it is not as strange as it sounds.
Waxed Polyester Jewellery Cord works very well for Shamballa or macrame bracelets because it is synthetic, not stretchy, and behaves in a similar way to a shoelace. It is both strong and flexible while still being reasonably easy to thread through larger bead holes.
Chinese Knotting Cord is another thicker type of thread, made from a perfectly round single ply. This makes it very good at threading through large beads and offers great control when tying knots. It also comes in a wide range of bold colours, making it perfect for intricate, woven and knotted designs.
Satin Rattail Cord can be thought of as a silky version of Chinese knotting cord that is also slightly thicker. These are well known in kimono fashions, and many of the iconic intricately knotted red designs associated with China are typically made from satin rattail, though there are many colours to choose from. This cord can be knotted in a similar way to the elastic cords mentioned earlier, and the satin finish makes them great for slip knots, a great option if you would rather avoid jewellery findings such as clasps.
Fireline Braided Bead Threads started out in the fishing industry as fishing lines, so they are designed with strength in mind over appearance. They typically come in white, black, smoke and clear, with special attention paid to poundage in manufacturing. Poundage refers to how much weight the line can hold before it snaps, which makes a lot of difference when you are hoping to land a large fish. In jewellery making terms this makes it a very popular thread, because you can trust it to withstand the weight of anything you are likely to place on an average piece of jewellery. Its strength comes from being made of braided polyethylene synthetic threads, which is stronger than a simple twist of two or more ply of natural fibre.
This is by no means all of the threads out there, because different cultures around the world have developed their own variations for local specialities. Sewing, beading and jewellery craft are found everywhere, and it is beautiful that this is a passion we all share. This article is a great introduction to the types of thread you can expect to find. When exploring the options for your own project, it is best to keep a few key questions in mind:
- Do you need it to be stretchy?
- How much weight will it have to carry?
- Will it be seen, and therefore do you want it to be a certain colour?
- Are you intending to use metal jewellery findings, or only knots?
- Are you threading it through anything, and how big are the holes it will pass through?
These will narrow your options down until you find the perfect thread for you. There is so much wonderful potential in what you can do with threads and cords in jewellery making, as well as sewing and other craft projects, that once you begin building your thread supply you will never want to stop.
FAQs
What is the best thread for jewellery making?
The best thread depends on the project: Fireline braided beading thread for bead weaving and high-weight designs (industrial strength, fishing-line origin). Nymo nylon for bead embroidery (50+ colours, conditioning required). Silk bead cord for stringing real or crystal pearls. Elastic cord for stretchy bracelets. Waxed polyester for macrame and Shamballa. Match the thread to the weight, technique and visibility requirements of the project.
What is the difference between conditioned and unconditioned thread?
Conditioned thread has a wax or synthetic coating that prevents fraying, reduces tangling and improves knot security — Fireline and Wildfire come pre-conditioned. Unconditioned thread (Nymo, Griffin Silk) is left untreated to keep colours vibrant and allow soft handling, but frays under tension. Condition unconditioned thread yourself by passing it across a block of beeswax several times before use.
Can I use elastic cord for beaded bracelets?
Yes — elastic cord is the easiest beginner option for stretchy bracelets and does not require any findings or clasps. Choose 0.8mm or 1mm clear or black elastic for most bead sizes. Tie a surgeon's knot for security and add a tiny dab of clear-drying glue (E6000 Plus) to the knot. Elastic does slacken over time — simply re-knot when needed. Avoid elastic for designs with heavy crystal or glass beads above 8mm.
What is the strongest thread for bead weaving?
Fireline braided beading thread is the strongest commonly used bead weaving thread — manufactured from braided polyethylene with poundage ratings (4lb, 6lb, 8lb, 10lb) borrowed from its fishing-line origin. The 6lb test (0.15mm) is the most popular for general bead weaving as it passes through size 11/0 seed beads multiple times. Wildfire is an alternative braided thread offering similar strength with a slightly softer hand.
What thread should I use for pearl jewellery?
Natural silk bead cord (Griffin Silk) is the traditional and recommended choice for pearl jewellery — it has the soft hand to prevent abrasion that could damage real pearls or the nacre coating on crystal pearls. Use it knotted between each pearl in the classic continental style. For modern crystal pearl designs needing extra strength, Fireline or nylon-coated stringing wire (Beadalon) are durable alternatives.
What is the difference between Nymo, Fireline and Wildfire?
Nymo is unconditioned nylon thread in 50+ colours, best for bead embroidery (needs beeswax conditioning to prevent fraying). Fireline is pre-conditioned braided polyethylene with industrial strength in white, black, smoke and clear — best for heavy or load-bearing beadwork. Wildfire is similar to Fireline with a softer, more flexible hand. Choose Nymo for colour, Fireline for raw strength, Wildfire for flexibility.
What is poundage in beading thread?
Poundage is the weight a thread can hold before snapping — a measurement borrowed from fishing line manufacturing. Common Fireline ratings are 4lb (0.13mm), 6lb (0.15mm), 8lb (0.17mm) and 10lb (0.21mm). 6lb test is the universal bead weaving standard, passing through 11/0 seed beads multiple times. Use 8lb or 10lb for heavier crystal beads or load-bearing structural beadwork. Higher poundage means thicker, stronger thread.
