Jewellery making is an accessible and rewarding craft, and this beginner's guide introduces all the key materials, tools and techniques you need to start creating your own unique accessories. We will cover the basic components and what each is most useful for, alongside handy tips and tricks that show just how approachable this skill can be. First, let us introduce the materials you can choose from for any piece of jewellery.
Beads & Crystals
Beads are a universal aspect of jewellery making that can be found at all points in history and at every level of society, because anything can become a bead. You just need a hole running through the middle and the ability to thread it onto a string. The three most famous and frequently used types of glass beads are Preciosa Bicone Beads, Round Beads and Seed Beads. Bicones are shaped differently to round beads, however both are cut with facets so that they can sparkle in the light. Seed beads on the other hand are completely smooth and tend to be fully round or slightly cylindrical, however there are other styles that give slightly different finishes. All beads come in different sizes; bicones and round beads are typically measured in millimetres representing the diameter of the bead, whereas seed beads have assigned numbers and as the number goes higher, the bead gets smaller.
Chatons look like flat back crystals from the front, but they come to a point at the back, giving that iconic diamond shape when viewed from the side that many associate with Superman. This extra depth means there are more facets in the stone, giving it greater brilliance in the light, and they can come foiled or unfoiled. Chatons are often set into metal casings and are the types of crystals you typically find on rings.
Fancy Stones come in a variety of shapes and sizes, and they are faceted on both sides of the crystal; this is what makes them different to chatons, which are always round and come to a single point on the back. Fancy Stones are often the centre piece of an item of jewellery, for instance that famous blue heart shaped crystal on Rose's "Heart of The Ocean" necklace in the film Titanic. In the story it was a blue diamond, but a large blue heart shaped fancy stone would achieve a similar appearance.
Pearls in their natural form come from molluscs such as oysters and have many connections with romantic ideas and myths throughout history. Preciosa pearls are crafted from glass and coated in a layer of nacre, which gives them their opaque, pearlescent finish. This nacre process means glass pearls for jewellery making can come in a variety of colours. There are also different ways the pearl can be drilled; for instance the 5810 drilled pearl is completely round and has a hole running all the way through it just like a bead. However, you can get half drilled pearls where the hole only goes halfway in, which makes them well suited for sitting on the end of pins or at the bottom of dangling earrings. You can also get cabochon pearls that are domed on one side and flat on the other. Cabochons come in different shapes and can be made from different materials, because it is the cut, with its flat back and smoothly curved front face, that defines it as a cabochon.
Pendants are decorative objects that can go on necklaces or earrings and usually have a hole in one end, which is attached to the rest of the piece with a bail. Pendants can be made of anything, however faceted crystals are very popular because you can create a matching jewellery set from them. It is also possible to turn a solid object into a pendant by using a specially designed bail, so even though a drilled hole is easy, it is not vital.
Findings For Jewellery
Almost all jewellery is made up of small metal components, also known as "findings for jewellery making". These include the chains for necklaces and bracelets, many types of ear wires, and various styles of clasp, which are used to turn a length of chain into a necklace that can connect to itself.
There are also several types of metal beads and crimp beads which can be used to secure loops when working with cord or thread. A crimp is essentially a short tube of metal which can be pressed flat with pliers, and this will hold together anything running through the loop. Crimp beads are then placed over the top, which makes it look like a simple metal bead. This is a great way to secure loops of thread without having to tie a single knot, and is popular in beaded bracelets. Jump rings are another popular way of connecting metal components and these act like links in a chain. You can open these by gently gripping with pliers and twisting either side of the loop open and closed; avoid pulling jump rings open as this damages the metal.
Metal plating is extremely common in many types of jewellery, however few know what it actually means. Plated metal is the result of a process called electroplating; basically this means there is a base metal (called a substrate) and it is coated in a thin layer of protective or decorative metal to change its strength or appearance.
Gold plated is not the same as gold gilded, because in this instance the gold is not a separate foil that is glued on, but a chemically attached layer of loose gold particles. Copper or other base metals lie underneath the golden surface, and this will eventually be revealed after lengthy oxidisation or frequent contact with skin and chemicals found in toiletries.
Silver plating is also used for its decorative appeal and is made the same way as gold plating, requiring the same type of care to prevent tarnishing, which is both natural and inevitable. The best way to delay tarnishing is by storing jewellery in sealed containers to prevent unnecessary exposure to the air. Keep the metal away from moisture as much as possible (a classic mistake is taking showers while leaving jewellery on) and limit how much contact with skin it receives, as the oils react with the metal and often result in those green residues on the skin, which are completely harmless but undesired. A common example is the back of the neck where a necklace has been allowed to sit for a long length of time.
For a shining finish that resists the natural effects of tarnishing for longer than plated metal, we recommend Sterling Silver (925). It is not "Fine Silver", which is 99.9% pure, because unblended silver is typically too soft and malleable for most uses, including jewellery making. Most silver jewellery that is bought and worn is made from Sterling Silver, typically hallmarked with a "925" stamp. Sterling Silver is Fine Silver alloyed with copper to a composition of 92.5% pure silver and 7.5% copper, which makes the resulting metal harder and more durable without compromising the iconic silver colour. It is worth knowing that the added copper will cause Sterling Silver to tarnish eventually compared to completely pure silver. When tarnished it will turn dark brown or black over time, especially in humid conditions. However, it will not rust or perish with normal use and it is easy to clean.
Pliers
For a steady grip and a clear look at what you are doing, we recommend using pliers for the majority of metal work. Pliers and tweezers can easily be mixed up if you are new to this; the way to tell them apart is that pliers have jaws designed to grab an object firmly, which enhances the strength of the user's grip. Tweezers are much finer and are designed to simply pick up and move small items; for instance you bend wire with a pair of pliers and you pick up a crystal with a pair of tweezers. Pliers come in a wide variety of sizes and intended tasks, however there are five key types that can be considered the core kit for any beginner jewellery maker, and these can be bought individually or in our sets of pliers found in the tools section of our website.
In jewellery making you will almost always need to bend something, and Round Nose Pliers are perfect for creating the smooth, tight loops you need to connect one component to another. The round tips are wider at the bottom and narrower at the end, giving you control over the size of the loops.
Whenever there is excess wire, it is best to trim with Side Cutters; these are better than scissors because the cutting edge is much stronger and you can apply more force with the plier handles, while the flat side also gives more accuracy when cutting.
Chain Nose Pliers and Bent Nose Pliers are great for holding and bending wire in a variety of ways. The jaws on both types are flat and smooth on the inside and they both come to narrow points at the tip, perfect for accurately grabbing tiny sections of wire. Bent nose pliers differ because the nose curves halfway so that the tip is at a right angle to the handle, which is good for awkward tasks when you need to reach round something.
Flat Nose Pliers are the final type we recommend; like chain nose pliers they are flat and smooth on the inside, however the jaws are much wider and are best for when you want to control a larger surface area or smooth something out.
Threads
When you are weaving beads together you may wish to use thread because of its flexibility; Nymo, Wildfire and Fireline are very popular brands. Fireline and Wildfire both provide conditioned threads which are more resistant to stretching and breaking. When a thread is conditioned it means it has been coated in something that prevents fraying, which can be done with beeswax or synthetic conditioner.
Nymo threads are made of unconditioned nylon, which does mean it is more likely to fray, however it comes in a wide range of colours making it well suited for bead embroidery. If you want to condition a thread yourself you simply hold your block of wax in one hand, pressing the thread into it with your thumb, and pull the thread through using your other hand; it is best to do this several times to ensure good coverage.
Poundage is a term used on most threads and cords, indicating the strength of the thread by showing how much weight it can hold before it snaps. Fireline threads started as fishing lines, which is why you will find crossover and why so much attention has been paid to strength compared to range of colours.
There is also braided beading thread which does not fray or stretch because of how it is made, and frequently has a nylon coating which helps protect the strands inside from wear and tear. Beading cord also has multiple strands and is usually 2 ply or higher. Ply is a term also used for knitting wool and refers to how many strands of fibre are twisted together to create a thicker, stronger final thread, similar to the red and white stripes on a candy cane.
Monofilament cord is made from a single synthetic strand sturdy enough to not require a needle. When using clear cord, you can put colour on the end you are using when threading, to make it easier to find if you have to put it down.
Wire
There are three things to consider when choosing wire as a beginner: hardness, gauge and metal type. Hardness refers to how flexible it is and directly affects how well it holds its shape. There are three major categories of hardness: the softest is called Dead Soft, which is very easy to bend, making it perfect for tight coils but also easily bent out of shape. Half Hard wire is still bendable, but springier and holds its shape better. Full Hard describes wire which is really springy and is best at holding its shape once formed, though this requires the most force when being manipulated. Memory wire is considered different because it holds its factory-made shape so well that it behaves like a slinky, which makes it great for bracelets and requires special memory wire cutters because it will likely damage any other tool. You also need to understand gauge, which means the thickness or diameter of the wire. The thicker and heavier a wire is, the smaller the gauge number will be. For example, a 28 gauge wire will be like a thread, whereas 12 gauge will be thick and require a lot of force to bend. Just like metal findings, the type of metal needs to be considered if it is going to be in contact with the skin, and information on the composition of any given wire can be found on its spool.
Jewellery Making Projects
You will find an extensive range of crafting, embellishment and jewellery making projects available on our website. They give you an easy opportunity to use the knowledge you have learned.
Earrings
Firstly, you will need the finding that will go through the ear; these can be Shepherds Crook or Fishhook ear wires if the earrings are going to dangle. You can also use post and scroll ear wires if you are designing stud earrings.
Flat Headpins are great for simple bead or pearl earrings because they have a flat stopper at one end, meaning you can thread beads or pearls onto it and they will not slip off the other end.
The trick now is connecting the pin to the ear wire, and the best way to do this is by using round nose pliers to bend the headpin into a small loop and using side cutters to trim off any excess.
You can now use a 4mm jump ring to connect the looped end of the headpin to the other loop on the ear wire. Twist the jump ring open with your chain nose pliers and then thread the two loops onto it. Once you are happy that everything is facing the front, gently twist the jump ring closed and it is done. Repeat the process for the other earring.
Necklace
There are three key decisions to make when designing the metal parts of a pendant necklace: which style of chain, what style of clasp, and which type of bail you are going to use. The most common type of chain is a Trace Chain, however Belcher, Curb and Snake chains are all worth considering and come in different lengths if you are buying a premade necklace.
If you are making a necklace from scratch you will need to add a clasp, which could be a Lobster Clasp, Bolt Ring or Toggle Clasp depending on the look you are aiming for, and these will be attached to the chain with a jump ring.
The part of the necklace seen the most is the pendant and its bail, and you need to pick the right sized bail to fit around your pendant. Using a Simple Bail as an example, you will find a measurement in millimetres in the product description; if it says 7mm this means it can securely hold anything with a hole up to 7mm deep between the picks of the bail. A very popular size of bail is 11mm as it is a good average size, and Pinch Bails are easy to prise open and then pinch closed around your pendant without the need for a tool. Bails have loops on them designed so that you can simply thread the chain through, resulting in a finished necklace.
Conclusion
The world of jewellery making is wide, varied and can become incredibly in-depth and specialised, however the basics are fun and easy to master with the aid of a few simple tools. Many of the items discussed in this article can be found in the accessories section of our website. There are so many wonderful variations of colour, size and shape across our brands that there is near limitless potential to create something completely unique and entirely your own, so let your imagination lead the way.
FAQs
What do I need to start making jewellery as a beginner?
The five essential items beginners need are: 1) Pliers (round nose, chain nose, side cutters as minimum). 2) Findings (jump rings, ear wires, headpins, clasps). 3) Beads or crystals (Preciosa bicones at 3mm-6mm are ideal starter beads). 4) Thread or wire (Nymo or Fireline for beadwork, 22-24 gauge wire for wire wrapping). 5) A beading mat to keep components organised. Starter sets cost from around £30-£50 total.
What are the essential jewellery making pliers for beginners?
The five core plier types are: 1) Round nose pliers (creating smooth loops in wire). 2) Chain nose pliers (gripping wire, opening jump rings). 3) Side cutters (cleanly trimming wire and headpins). 4) Bent nose pliers (reaching awkward angles). 5) Flat nose pliers (gripping larger surface areas). Buy as a 5-piece set for the best value, or start with round nose, chain nose and side cutters as the minimum starter trio.
What is the difference between bicone, round and seed beads?
Bicones are diamond-shaped faceted glass beads measured in millimetres (3mm-8mm common) that sparkle from cut facets. Round beads are spherical faceted beads also measured in millimetres. Seed beads are small smooth glass beads sized by number — the higher the number, the smaller the bead (11/0 and 15/0 are common beadwork sizes). Bicones and rounds are best for stringing; seed beads are best for bead weaving and embroidery.
What thread should I use for jewellery making?
For bead weaving and bracelets choose Fireline or Wildfire braided beading thread — both are pre-conditioned, resist fraying and stretch, and hold knots reliably. Nymo nylon thread is the most popular for bead embroidery and comes in 50+ colours, but needs conditioning with beeswax first. For stringing larger beads use nylon-coated stringing wire (Beadalon) with crimp beads, and avoid standard sewing thread which is too weak.
What gauge wire is best for jewellery making?
For beginners: 22 gauge (0.64mm) for headpins and simple loops. 24 gauge (0.51mm) for delicate wire wrapping. 20 gauge (0.81mm) for sturdy ear wires and clasps. 18 gauge (1.02mm) for strong frames and findings. Memory wire requires its own dedicated memory wire cutters as it will damage standard side cutters. Lower gauge number = thicker, stronger wire; higher gauge number = thinner, more flexible wire.
How do I stop silver jewellery from tarnishing?
Store silver jewellery in sealed containers (ziplock bags work well) to limit air exposure, which causes oxidation tarnishing. Remove silver jewellery before showering, swimming and exercising — moisture and skin oils accelerate tarnishing. For long-lasting silver, choose Sterling Silver (925, hallmarked) over plated silver. Clean tarnished Sterling Silver with a silver polishing cloth. Sterling Silver tarnishes more slowly than silver plating, which eventually wears through to the base metal.
Where can I buy crystals and beads for jewellery making?
Bluestreak Crystals stocks the complete range of Preciosa crystal beads, pearls, chatons, fancy stones and pendants for jewellery making at trade-friendly prices. As an Authorised Swarovski Distribution Partner, we also supply the full genuine Swarovski crystal range. Browse the complete jewellery making crystals collection or apply for a trade discount for tiered pricing on production orders.
