Whether you are buying jewellery for yourself or buying silver jewellery findings to craft beautiful homemade pieces, sterling silver jewellery stands as an emblem of understated luxury, with a timeless charm that transcends style, class and time.
However, amidst an increasingly intricate marketplace, it can be challenging to discern genuine sterling silver from smart imitations. In the following guide, we give you a number of tips that can help simplify the process when it comes to recognising authentic sterling silver, especially if you are using jewellery findings to craft unique pieces.
What is Sterling Silver?
A precious metal with its roots firmly grounded in history, sterling silver is an alloy composed primarily of pure silver, enhanced by a small fraction of other metals. While pure silver is soft and prone to damage, the combination with more robust metals, typically copper, lends sterling silver its desirable durability.
The resulting alloy is exactly 92.5% pure silver, with the remaining 7.5% comprising other metals. This unique composition is what gives sterling silver its iconic versatility, strength and exquisite sheen. With its mesmerising allure and functional strength, sterling silver has become a favoured material in creating exquisite jewellery pieces that withstand time. For the historical context behind these components, see our guide to the history of jewellery findings.
The Importance of Verifying Silver Authenticity for Jewellery Makers
As a jewellery maker, the responsibility of authenticity in the materials you use is paramount. Customers rely on your expertise and honesty to provide them with pieces that are accurately labelled and priced. Sterling silver jewellery findings are particularly popular due to their durability and timeless appeal, so it is crucial that these components are genuine sterling silver if they are being marketed as such.
Selling jewellery made with genuine sterling silver findings not only ensures the longevity and quality of your pieces but also maintains your reputation as a trusted artisan in the industry. If a customer were to find out that the sterling silver piece they purchased is, in fact, an imitation, it could lead to significant consequences for your business. Trust is a fundamental cornerstone in the jewellery business, and once broken, it is challenging to rebuild.
Word of mouth and customer reviews are powerful influences in today's digital age, and negative feedback can significantly impact your business. In more serious cases, there may be legal implications involved with misrepresenting the material of your jewellery, leading to possible financial penalties and damage to your brand's reputation.
Verifying the authenticity of your sterling silver findings is therefore not just a matter of ensuring quality but also a legal and ethical obligation.
How to know if Sterling Silver is Real
So, how can you tell if the sterling silver findings you are buying are authentic? Here is what to look out for.
Markings
Genuine sterling silver pieces often bear specific markings or hallmarks that serve as evidence of their authenticity. In particular, look for a stamp marked as '925', 'Ster', 'Sterling' or 'Sterling Silver'. The '925' hallmark is particularly significant, referring to the 92.5% pure silver content in the piece. If your jewellery or alloys do not contain any of these stamps, you may not be dealing with genuine sterling silver. For a fuller glossary of jewellery making terms including hallmarks, see our complete jewellery glossary.
The Magnet Test
Silver in its pure form is not magnetic, so if your piece of jewellery or jewellery finding is drawn towards a magnet, it may well be a fake. Bear in mind that this is not a definitive test, as some counterfeit pieces may also be non-magnetic.
The Nitric Acid Test
The Nitric Acid Test is a slightly more conclusive method to confirm the authenticity of your sterling silver. Genuine silver will turn a creamy colour when exposed to nitric acid, while fake silver will turn green. We strongly recommend letting a professional jeweller conduct this test to avoid damage to your jewellery and because nitric acid is hazardous and requires careful handling.
Weight
Authentic sterling silver is relatively heavy in comparison to many other metals. If your piece feels lighter than you would expect, it may not be genuine.
Understanding '925 FAS' and 'FAS' on Jewellery
The appearance of '925 FAS' or 'FAS' on a piece of silver is often associated with sterling silver. The '925' denotes the 92.5% silver content in sterling silver, in accordance with the standard composition of the alloy. The letters 'FAS' are sometimes used by manufacturers alongside the 925 hallmark and are interpreted to mean 'Fused Alloy Silver', indicating that the piece is an alloy with a blend of silver and other robust metals.
It is worth noting that 'FAS' is not a formal industry-recognised assay mark in the way that '925' is. The '925' stamp is the dependable indicator: if '925' is present and clearly stamped, that is the strongest authenticity signal. 'FAS' on its own (without '925') simply suggests the piece is a silver alloy of unknown composition. For absolute certainty, particularly with valuable pieces, look for the official UK assay office hallmarks alongside any '925' stamp, or seek a professional jeweller's assessment.
FAQs
How can I tell if Sterling Silver is real?
Five tests confirm Sterling Silver: 1) Look for the 925 hallmark stamped on the piece. 2) Test with a strong magnet — Sterling Silver is not magnetic. 3) Polish with a soft white cloth — Sterling Silver leaves a black tarnish residue. 4) Apply a single drop of nitric acid (carefully) — real silver stays cream-coloured; fake turns green. 5) Sterling Silver feels cool and heavy.
What does 925 mean on jewellery?
925 means the metal is Sterling Silver — an alloy of 92.5% pure silver and 7.5% other metals (usually copper). Pure silver is too soft for jewellery, so it is alloyed with copper to add hardness and durability while keeping the silver appearance. The 925 hallmark is the international standard mark for Sterling Silver across all reputable jewellery markets.
Is silver plated the same as Sterling Silver?
No — silver plated jewellery has a thin layer of silver (typically a few microns) bonded over a base metal like copper or brass. Sterling Silver is solid silver alloy throughout. Silver plating wears off over time, exposing the base metal underneath, while Sterling Silver retains its silver character indefinitely with proper care. Plated pieces are usually marked "silver plated" or "EPNS".
Does Sterling Silver tarnish?
Yes — Sterling Silver tarnishes naturally over time due to the 7.5% copper content reacting with sulphur in the air, turning dark brown or black. Tarnishing is reversible: polish with a Sterling Silver polishing cloth, anti-tarnish silver dip or a homemade bicarbonate of soda paste. Store Sterling Silver in airtight bags with anti-tarnish strips to slow oxidation.
What is the difference between Fine Silver and Sterling Silver?
Fine Silver is 99.9% pure silver (hallmarked 999), too soft for most jewellery as it bends and scratches easily. Sterling Silver (925) is 92.5% silver alloyed with 7.5% copper for hardness and durability. Sterling Silver is the practical standard for jewellery; Fine Silver is reserved for clay-formed jewellery, bullion, ceremonial pieces and applications where pure silver is structurally required.
Is Sterling Silver hypoallergenic?
Sterling Silver is generally considered hypoallergenic — most people with metal sensitivities tolerate Sterling Silver well because nickel is not part of the standard 925 alloy. However, some Sterling Silver alloys (particularly older or low-quality imports) include trace nickel. Choose hallmarked nickel-free Sterling Silver from reputable suppliers if you have known nickel sensitivity for piercings or sensitive skin.
