Choosing the right metals for jewellery making is one of the most consequential decisions a maker has to make, affecting durability, comfort, hypoallergenic properties and the final aesthetic of every piece. This guide walks through why metal choice matters, the best metals for different applications, the metals to avoid, and how to pick the right option for your work. Whether you are working on a one-off design or building a jewellery business, the same considerations apply.
Whether you are indulging in a creative hobby or starting a jewellery business, the first concern of any aspiring jeweller is their raw materials. Your choice of metals for jewellery making is not just an aesthetic one: the right metals can enhance the durability and resistance of your pieces, while cheap or poorly made metals are more likely to break, damage or even cause skin irritation when worn. Below we cover everything you need to know. If you are just starting out, take a look at our beginner's guide to jewellery making first.
Why The Right Metals Are Important in Jewellery Making
Aesthetic appeal
The metal you choose greatly influences the look and style of your jewellery, whether you opt for metals with timeless appeal like gold or sterling silver, or try to keep your budget down by opting for gold-plated metals. Select metals that align with your aspirational vision and desired aesthetic, while taking into consideration the preferences of your target audience.
Durability and longevity
Durability is another key factor in jewellery-making, especially when it comes to selling to paying customers. Your customers do not want to spend good money on something that breaks with the slightest wear and tear. Consider your target audience: if you are making jewellery for children, factor in the active lives they often lead; for adults, you have more room to add delicate touches or details.
Comfort and hypoallergenic properties
You also need to consider comfort and allergies when making jewellery. Cheaper metals can provoke skin irritations, while heavier or more abrasive metals can feel uncomfortable when worn. Heavier metals may not be suitable for larger, intricate pieces designed to be worn for extended periods. It is possible to source metals that offer comfort while being kind to the skin, all within budget: see our range of jewellery findings for hypoallergenic and quality options.
Best Metals for Jewellery Making
Gold
Starting with the most expensive, gold in all its various forms is a classic choice for jewellery making, though it represents a hefty investment. At the top end of the budget, pure gold (24K) is highly prized for its rich yellow tones and luxe visual appeal, but it is quite soft and malleable, making it less durable. Gold-filled and gold-plated options offer affordability while maintaining the luxurious look, and thanks to their metal alloys they are more durable and suitable for everyday wear.
Silver
For silver, there are a number of options. Fine silver (typically 99.9% pure) is a soft and lustrous metal, ideal for expensive high-end jewellery. Sterling silver (typically 92.5% silver and 7.5% alloyed metals) is similar to alloyed gold in that it is more durable and resists wear and tarnish better.
Steel
If silver and gold are out of your budget range, steel (particularly stainless steel) is a great alternative known for its strength and durability. Aside from being resistant to rust, tarnish and corrosion, stainless steel is also hypoallergenic, ideal if you are making pieces inclusive to those with sensitive skin. It is also almost visually indistinguishable from silver to the untrained eye, so you get the aesthetic appeal of a silver piece without the fragility of fine silver.
Metals to Avoid in Jewellery Making
Some metals are best avoided when making jewellery. Here are three we would not recommend.
Nickel
Often used in inexpensive jewellery, nickel is one of the cheaper metals on the market, but should be avoided primarily due to its potential for causing allergic reactions. Many people have a sensitivity to nickel, which can lead to skin irritation, redness and rashes, even when used in alloys. Best to steer clear entirely.
Lead
Lead is a toxic metal that should be avoided in all jewellery-making, especially when it comes to items that might be worn by children. While lead was once popular in many cheap and older jewellery pieces, lead poisoning is associated with developmental and behavioural problems, with children more susceptible than adults. Modern jewellery should always be lead-free.
Brass and bronze
While brass and bronze copper alloys have been popular thanks to their gold-like appearance and affordability, they can cause skin discolouration due to the copper content (the greenish tint you sometimes get from cheap jewellery). Some people also have allergic reactions to copper. If you do plan on using these metals, applying a protective coating to minimise direct skin contact is a good practice.
Pairing Metals with Crystal Embellishment
Once you have chosen the right metals, the next step is often embellishment. The way crystals catch the light works beautifully with all the metals discussed above, with cooler-toned crystals (clear, sapphire, aquamarine) pairing naturally with silver and stainless steel, and warmer-toned crystals (citrine, topaz, light topaz) complementing gold and gold-filled settings. Browse our Swarovski stones range for chatons and fancy stones designed for metal settings. For wire-strung and threaded designs, see our ultimate guide to thread for jewellery making.
FAQs
What is the best metal for jewellery making?
The best metal depends on the project and price point: Sterling Silver (925) for premium hypoallergenic everyday wear; gold-filled for warm tones without solid gold cost; surgical stainless steel for sensitive skin and waterproof use; copper for affordable handmade pieces with a warm finish; pewter for casting detailed components. Avoid pure nickel and unrated base metal alloys for contact-with-skin jewellery.
What is the difference between gold-filled and gold-plated?
Gold-filled has a thick layer of gold (5% of total weight minimum, regulated by US standard 1/20 14K) mechanically bonded to a base metal core โ it lasts decades without wearing through. Gold-plated has a thin gold layer (typically under 0.5 microns) chemically bonded over base metal โ it wears through within 1โ3 years. Gold-filled is the practical hypoallergenic alternative to solid gold.
Is Sterling Silver better than silver-plated for jewellery making?
Yes โ Sterling Silver (925) delivers durability, hypoallergenic wear and consistent appearance throughout the piece's lifetime. Silver-plated jewellery wears off over time, exposing the base metal underneath, and is best for short-lifespan fashion jewellery only. For pieces you intend to last years or sell at premium price points, always choose hallmarked Sterling Silver.
What metal is best for sensitive skin and ear piercings?
Surgical stainless steel (316L grade), titanium (Grade 23 ASTM F-136), and niobium are the safest choices for sensitive skin and ear piercings โ all three are nickel-free and biocompatible. Sterling Silver is generally well tolerated but contains trace metals in the 7.5% copper alloy. Avoid plated brass and unrated alloys for piercings, which commonly trigger contact dermatitis.
What is the difference between Sterling Silver and Fine Silver?
Sterling Silver is 92.5% pure silver alloyed with 7.5% copper for hardness โ the practical standard for jewellery. Fine Silver is 99.9% pure silver, too soft for most jewellery use but ideal for clay-formed silver pieces and applications requiring purity. Sterling Silver is hallmarked 925; Fine Silver is hallmarked 999. Most worn jewellery uses Sterling Silver; Fine Silver is reserved for specialist applications.
What metals should I avoid in jewellery making?
Avoid four metals for skin-contact jewellery: 1) Pure nickel โ triggers contact dermatitis in 17% of women. 2) Cadmium-containing alloys โ toxic and banned in EU children's jewellery. 3) Unrated base metal alloys โ variable composition, often contain lead. 4) Soldered findings of unknown composition. Always source findings from REACH-compliant suppliers and prefer hallmarked or certified nickel-free alloys.
